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Nike has placed plus-size mannequins in its large London store on the women’s department. The internet is going wild: “Doesn’t that contradict the image of a sporty brand like Nike?” The internet reacts: “Stop fat shaming.”
Here we go again.
Nike and the Plus-Size Mannequin
When I saw the news last night, I was left somewhat confused. I had so many questions. But the most important ones were:
- Why are we allowed to fat shame and call mannequins fat, but not plus-size models?
- Why should a sports brand, of all things, not be allowed to place ‘curvy’ mannequins in the store?
RTL Boulevard discussed the topic. Because it was about ‘plus-size,’ Ashley Graham naturally came up again. The plus-size model who was once the subject of my most criticized article in almost ten years of writing.
Fat Shaming of Mannequins
In that article, I wondered if we should see models with overweight as role models, just as the same question has been asked for decades about too thin models. Because I understood that “fat” and “thin” can be subjective terms, I tried to keep this objective by using BMI to speak of the more medical terms “overweight” and “obesity.”
Nice attempt at nuance, but it didn’t matter. If you call a plus-size model fat, you’re just a dick.
But that’s why I was so surprised last night by the harsh criticism directed at Nike following the introduction of the plus-size mannequins. “Too fat, too full, and much too curvy for a sports brand.”
Following the Plus-Size Trend
We see a clip at RTL Boulevard in which a CBS news anchor tells us that 42% of consumers let their choice of clothing purchase be influenced by the sizes of the mannequins. Retailers are therefore increasingly replacing mannequins with wasp waists with more curvy mannequins. A more realistic representation of a large part of the clientele.
So, Nike is now following this trend.
As expected, Nike is praised for this from various angles. “Brave of them to challenge the beauty ideal.”
“No Plus-Size in Fitness”
But for some reason, according to many, a sports brand like Nike should not go along with this. This would promote obesity, according to them.
Tanya Gold wrote an article about it for the Telegraph the day before yesterday, with similar criticism. Among other things, she wrote that she saw it as a form of fat acceptance.
“The new Nike mannequin is not size 12, which is healthy, or even 16 – a hefty weight, yes, but not one to kill a woman. She is immense, gargantuan, vast. She heaves with fat. She is, in every measure, obese, and she is not readying herself for a run in her shiny Nike gear. She cannot run. She is, more likely, pre-diabetic and on her way to a hip replacement.”
Her standpoint was the same as mine about plus-size models. Although I formulated it as a question: To what extent is accepting overweight a form of
giving up? I also like to think I was a bit more subtle.
No Fat-Shaming for Mannequins
But just like I did back then, Tanya quickly realized that such viewpoints step on long toes. By now, she has received quite a few critical reactions. “‘She heaves with fat’ might be the most absolutely disgusting ‘analysis’ of something that should be celebrated. I’m a woman of that size and seeing mannequins like this make me feel encouraged. For too long has the gym floor, or any exercise space felt overwhelmingly intimidating for woman and men who aren’t a size fucking 12. How can you encourage women of any size to enjoy exercise, movement or even just enjoy the fucking clothes without representation. This article is utter bullshit.”
“Plus size doesn’t always = obese. Thin doesn’t always = healthy. One size does NOT fit all. And once again, clickbait has been mistaken for journalism.”
You could have expected that, of course. If you mock a mannequin with certain dimensions, people with a similar figure will naturally feel addressed.
By the way, I notice that no one has yet mentioned that terms like ‘overweight’ and ‘obesity’ are linked to BMI. BMI is, of course, the outcome of the ratio between weight and height. Given that a ‘normal’ mannequin can weigh less than 10kg, the chance is high that, in terms of BMI, the plus-size mannequin is actually severely undernourished.
No Fat Acceptance through Curvy Mannequins
Although I do recognize some of Tanya’s concerns, I found them unjustified in this case. Not because I now think differently about the popularity of plus-size models. In my opinion, there is a significant difference between placing a plus-size mannequin in your shop window and putting plus-size models on a pedestal. As for the fear of ‘fat acceptance’.
Although models were originally living mannequins, this has obviously changed since the rise of supermodels. A mannequin doesn’t have followers on Instagram (as far as I know). Ashley Graham has 8.5 million followers.
People will always differ in opinions on such topics. It’s a clash of two ideals: one ideal assumes that you always want to improve yourself (‘best version of you’), while the other ideal assumes that you accept yourself as you are. People who fear ‘fat acceptance’ are afraid that this acceptance prevents you from working on yourself. ‘Accepting a lesser version of you’. People who believe that you should be able to accept yourself as you are are afraid that advertisements with thin models lead to depression. For them, such ads are not inspirational, but intimidating.
So, I understand the tension. However, I think a mannequin should cause less tension than a model with millions of followers. Should you be afraid that a mannequin will encourage people to accept overweight? Or is it simply accepting that there are increasingly more people with overweight? People who want to see how clothes will look on their bodies in a store. I think it’s the latter.
Why Curvy Mannequins at Nike Make Sense
Finally, something else that I didn’t really understand in the criticism of Nike. Namely, the point that precisely a sportswear brand like Nike shouldn’t use curvy mannequins. “How can a sportswear brand promote an ‘unathletic’ body?”
The most valid criticism of my own article was that I shouldn’t automatically link a high weight to being unathletic. That criticism was also mentioned by people who were angry at (the article of) Tanya. Although some researchers doubt the existence of healthy overweight, I cannot exclude individual cases. However, it’s hard to deny that there is a strong correlation between overweight and health problems. Something that I have tried to demonstrate in my argument for BMI as an indicator of health risks.
However, this is not about promoting an ‘unathletic’ body. It’s about selling sportswear to people who want to be athletic. Why would you only focus on people who are already ‘athletic’?
Nike should make good, functional sportswear. Then it’s very odd if criticism can be translated as: “Nike is not for people with overweight”. For many people, the goal already seems unattainable. You don’t help them if you make the path to that goal impassable. If you see a world of people exercising who all already have a slim body, it can be difficult to see yourself in that world if you’re heavier.
In its store in London, Nike shows a world where people with larger sizes also exercise. So, I say to Nike: Just do it!
And yet, I’m taking off my Nike’s now. I have the feeling they won’t be appreciated at my assignment as a photographer at Adidas this afternoon.
